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What type of bore brush?
newsig Offline
#1 Posted : Tuesday, September 30, 2008 1:33:03 PM(UTC)
newsig

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Hi, I was wondering what type of bore brush do you use to clean inside your barrel? The manual says to stay away from steel so I've been using my cotton bore brush. Has anybody ventured with a steel or other metal bore brush? If so what are you experiences?
equality72521 Offline
#2 Posted : Tuesday, September 30, 2008 2:06:23 PM(UTC)
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Bronze brush works fine in mine.
Hawk Offline
#3 Posted : Tuesday, September 30, 2008 3:00:53 PM(UTC)
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I use a bore snake. It has a little metal in it, but nothing like a brush. Seems to work great. I was also worried about the metal, but everything seems to be fine.
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soc16 Offline
#4 Posted : Tuesday, September 30, 2008 3:50:32 PM(UTC)
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I use a brass brush. it works fine. It doesn't scratch the inner barrel.
miltony Offline
#5 Posted : Tuesday, September 30, 2008 10:52:21 PM(UTC)
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+1 on the boresnake here.
ss355 Offline
#6 Posted : Wednesday, October 01, 2008 3:37:01 AM(UTC)
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I'm hooked on foaming bore cleaner. I think a few different brands are available; I'm using the Breakfree brand. Squirt it in the bore, let 'er sit for a few minutes, and then swab with a couple patches. It's the consistency of shaving cream, and it thoroughly coats the bore when applied. Seems to attack copper pretty aggressively, based on the amount of blue that's present on the patch after swabbing. Most of my cleaning with the foam is on rifles, and those seem to produce more copper fouling than the 250.

The foam makes the cleaning regimen easy. I squirt the foam, swab it out, follow with an oiled patch, and finish using a dry patch.

The upshot is I don't use a brush. However, when I do use a brush on other bores, it's either a bronze/brass or plastic bristle, both Hoppe's brand.
1911su16b870 Offline
#7 Posted : Wednesday, August 19, 2009 2:31:45 PM(UTC)
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I like the OTIS 10 pack bore brushes and the old aluminum cleaning rods. I really like MPro 7 cleaner and the OTIS CLP and Breakfree CLP products.
collector rob Offline
#8 Posted : Friday, September 04, 2009 5:11:17 AM(UTC)
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Bronze brush, followed by patches here.
dosborn81 Offline
#9 Posted : Friday, September 04, 2009 5:44:30 AM(UTC)
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I will run a patch soaked in #9 first to remove big chunks of metal/fouling and then run the brass brush. I repeat this until the patches come out clean.
"I don't like repeat offenders, I like dead offenders." Ted Nugent
sniper350 Offline
#10 Posted : Wednesday, September 09, 2009 1:23:00 PM(UTC)
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ss355 - Brings up a good point that should be repeated ......... It is very important to use a copper cleaner during your cleaning sessions. It is not necessary to use it every cleaning session ........but it should be used at least once every 500 rounds or so to keep ahead of any build up. You can stretch that number to 5000 rds if you have the time to soak the barrel and give it time to work on the copper. Most of the newer cleaners will show that "Blue" tint when the cleaner is working and doing its job.

Nothing will destroy accuracy faster than allowing copper to build up between your Lands & grooves of the barrel. After you use a good copper cleaner ........your barrel will look black again on the inside ( depending on how many rounds the barrel has taken ).

Just read an article in "Guns" magazine ( Oct 2009 ) ........ where the author David Anderson writes " Barrel turning Green - just clean it ! "
where he explains how he has bought some rifles that were thought to be shot out ......... and all he did was give the weapon a good copper cleaning and the rifle shot like NEW !!!


JF.
billbeamon Offline
#11 Posted : Tuesday, January 05, 2010 3:06:32 AM(UTC)
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If you don't have significant lead or copper deposits, a fat tennis shoe lace doubled up once or twice and sprinkled with Hoppes #9 works fine. Pull it through a couple of times with a loop of insulated hookup wire. The same idea using a chunk of Chore Boy dish scrubber (copper only) and some Hoppes helps scrub lead and copper deposits out. Sometimes you may be without the proper brass/bronze brush and swab patches.

I had to chisel lead deposits out of the barrel of my Ruger MKII .22 pistol after using *(&%)# Remington Thunderbolt ammo in it. It was so clogged, it blocked the cleaning rod, which I ended up using as a chisel. I finished it up with a proper bronze brush and the tennis shoe lace, along with Hoppes #9.
dosborn81 Offline
#12 Posted : Tuesday, January 05, 2010 4:41:30 AM(UTC)
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I have switched to bore snakes. I keep brass brushes handy for all calibers when I have a lot of build up.
"I don't like repeat offenders, I like dead offenders." Ted Nugent
XSubSailor Offline
#13 Posted : Thursday, May 20, 2010 5:43:50 AM(UTC)
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I use a boresnake...it has a bronze brush built in and cleans the barrel squeaky clean with a couple passes. I shoot some Hornady One Shot cleaner into the barrel, wait a minute or so, then two or three passes with the boresnake...done.
dihedral Offline
#14 Posted : Thursday, November 18, 2010 2:39:02 PM(UTC)
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I like billbeamon's idea of a tennis shoe lace.

When you can use something that doesn't say "gun" or "medical" on it, it costs about 90 per cent less than specialized things.

I mix up my own gun cleaner. "Ed's Red". Using paint thinner, acetone, and car automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Works fine. Google "Ed's Red"

If I have a copper problem, I use 5% ammonia and get it out after a minute or so. It turns green and gets the copper out like expensive copper cleaners.

I used to buy synthetic gun oil. Now I use Mobil 1, thicker in the summer and thinner in the winter. Somebody is probably rebottling it and knocking the price way up. Lifetime supply for $7 a quart. It is hard to get off your tools after you change the oil on the cars.

Mobil 1 grease sticks to metal so well it is hard to get off. Works great on rails. It will always stick. Main problem is getting it off. Sticks persistently. A problem I can handle. Lifetime supply for $7.

I use the plastic brush I got with a Glock. I try to keep metal brushes out of the barrel unless it really needs it. If I need to scrub, I use a bronze brush. I try to keep stainless steel brushes out as much as possible.

I will be looking for broken tennis shoe laces for emergency cleaning. Thanks, billbeamon.

I buy cloth by the yard for bore cleaning. Usually from the end of the bolt sale items. I use old socks and shirts for rags.

Never use anything with methanol in it to clean a firearm. It dissolves steel.

Good doesn't mean expensive.

Just my opinions.
Klaatu Offline
#15 Posted : Thursday, November 18, 2010 3:10:17 PM(UTC)
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No joke - how much of each on "Eds Red"?
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jsquared Offline
#16 Posted : Tuesday, March 01, 2011 4:20:21 AM(UTC)
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I switched to nylon brushes for all my guns and havent looked back since. The clean the same or better than brass, last longer, and don't leave residue in the barrel which can later turn solvents the tell-tale blue/green color. That means when I am cleaning copper from the rifling, I KNOW its copper Im removing, not what I just left in there with my brass brush.
Partsfreak Offline
#17 Posted : Tuesday, March 01, 2011 10:12:06 AM(UTC)
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I usually have to clean the full size and sub compact at the same time so I pour some Hoppes in a bowl and let the barrels soak in it while I clean the rest of the guns. Then I run the common brass brush through them and then put a patch over the brush and run it through a few times until the patches are clean. Then the jag/patch and finally the oiling.
When they come for my 6 shooter, they had better bring seven men.
BC_SDG Offline
#18 Posted : Saturday, April 30, 2011 2:45:37 AM(UTC)
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Bore snake, then I put a good amount of oil just behind the metal brush and then more oil 2-3inches down snake cloth.

Break up particles --> oil catch particles --> oil --> polish

1-2 pass done! This set up works like a charm, fast, easy and a nice shinny barrel. Nuff saidThumbsUp
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#19 Posted : Saturday, April 30, 2011 6:45:57 AM(UTC)
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I mainly use the foam cleaner. I strip it, fill the barrel with foam, let it soak while I clean everything else, then just run a couple of patches down the barrel until they come back clean and one more with CLP or M-Pro7. Every 3rd or 4th time, I'll run a brass brush or a snake down the barrel after the foam - not because I can see any residue, but because I had always done it before discovering the foam and something in me just has to! There's an old-fashioned part of me that thinks the foam can't possibly remove everything and the brush may get some last little bit of copper/residue build-up that the foam loosened but can't quite get.
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#20 Posted : Thursday, June 09, 2011 7:36:09 PM(UTC)
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Bronze brush.
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