1911su16b870 wrote:Sig has a great lubrication FAQ video on their website. They say there should be sufficient oil on all surfaces so that a print will be left when touched. I am a fan of Breakfree CLP but have heard that remoil is great due to it not flowing like the Breakfree CLP product. I also like the Otis CLP borecleaner.
The P250 as shipped from Sig uses grease on the hammer springs, but oil everywhere else.
Yesterday, i picked up some M-7 Pro gun oil and i must say, it works really good. I would say it's better than remoil and it sorta looks like 10w30 motor oil ( somewhat viscous ).
Testing the M-7's ability to protect from dust etc..: I took some dust off the top of my ceiling fan and used it against the M-7. I applied a thin thin coat on a soda can and blew the dust off the paper towel in the general area of the can. The oil collected some debris but still maintained its lubricity and actually repelled most of the small stuff. The same test was done using Dex synthetic atf ( another good lube ) and remoil. The dex did a good job providing great protection as there are additives that help fight corrosion but attracted almost all of the dust !!! The remoil attracted some dust but not quite as much as the dex. The dex still remained slippery after a light dusting. The remoil seemed to paste up when dust fell over the surface. M-7 also has additives to help prevent corrosion. Next test's will be some iron and the three oils against water !!!
I also re-cleaned the slide using brake cleaner from an auto store ( NON-Chlorinated ) and it worked well. It did not harm the night sites. The brake clean dry's residue free but will give a ghosting of white ( might be the propellant ) on a black slide. CRC Electric cleaner works well but has harsher chemicals so i do not recommend using it if you can get bake clean ( non chlorinated only )
Once you use some hoppes 9/ after wiping it down with a light mist of oil, the "ghosting" goes away completely. I used it to get the junk out of the firing pin channel. Then i put one drop of oil in the channel to coat the spring. Due to the nature of the design, sig recommends this to be done. You do not want to soak this area with oil as it will attract debris and cause issues !!! Oil on the end of the firing pin will also contaminate a primer and in some cases oil in this area can cause light primer strikes. I have found that after 700 rounds, 600 with 0 issues ( after polishing ) that a single drop of oil after a detailed breakdown works great and causes no issue's on the .45.
If you use oil and you see oil seeping out of the pin's and onto the plastic frame, You have applied too much oil and or you are using a oil that doesnt have the proper bonding elements to keep it in place. This is were the M-7 fits in. Its a thin oil that has great bonding properties so the oil can be used on the slide and small moving parts. It has enough creep to coat an assembly but will not bleed all over the place. Using Tetra gun grease on the slide seems to be the perfect combo: m-7 on all small moving parts and Tetra on slide ONLY.
Cleaning the gun, my process works as such. :Barrel: Hoppes 9 on brass brush 4 times in 4 times out. Cleaning pads 6 passes using new pad each time after waiting 10 minutes for the 9 to do its thing. Clean the brass brush with brake clean and wrap it in a cleaning pad with a little "oil of your choice" Proceed to remove the remaining debris until the pads ( new one each time ) are clean. Also use brake clean on the guide rod and springs and then take oil with a pad ( one drop ) and coat the spring and guide rod lightly.
Slide: Blast with brake clean till the steal is cold and the slide "ghosts". Take some #9 and brush the tracks and all contact areas lightly with a makeup brush ( used for eyelashes ) let sit for 5 minutes and then wipe with a clean cloth ( micro-fiber or cotton ). Oil down with "oil of your choice" and be sure to get an oil with anti corrosion properties. Be sure to oil the surfaces were the barrel comes in contact with the slide. Be sure to clean any residual from the tip of the firing pin ( this area should not have oil on it. The only reason a drop is used ( were the hammer strikes the pin ) is to coat the spring NOT the pin. One drop should be just enough to provide the workings of the firing pin protection against rust etc.
Fire Control Mechanism. Complete break down and clean each part using brake clean and a rag. Then put oil on your fingers and assemble. Each part you touch will get the oil from your fingers on it ( the oil you place on your fingers prior ) and the wipe down when done. Apply a very small amount of oil on each moving part and one drop on the hammer spring. Spread any run-off with your fingers on the entire assembly making sure all the metals are well protected.
Frame: Clean with a damp rag. NO Brake clean. take a drop of oil and apply to dry portion of rag and just "buff" the insides so there shiny but you do not want any parts of the frame to be wet and you do not want the mag well to have any oil in it. Apply 1/2 drop of oil to the top of the frame ( were the slide may come in contact with it depending on the individual gun ) and just spread so that the thin surface becomes slippery. It should not be wet !!! just a film on it or residue from the oil that is on your fingers from the slide.
Put it all together: Wipe the gun down with a micro-fiber cloth.....sing to the gun and put the gun back into its cradle were it will be ready for the next mission
